The trip for people who dive. CELESTIA leaves Maumere on Flores when the fleet moves east in September and October and crosses the Banda Sea to Ambon over twelve nights: an erupting volcano at Komba, the muck and drop-offs of Alor, the empty islands of Wetar and Damar, then two specks in the middle of the sea where schools of hammerheads pass, and finally the Spice Islands themselves.
There are no other boats for most of it. The islands are the ones Indonesia forgot, the reefs are pinnacles and walls covered in gorgonians, and on land there is a village of the Abui tribe, the nutmeg town of Banda Neira and a fort from 1611.
Fly into Maumere, fly out of Ambon. Two dive professionals travel with you and Nitrox is free.